How Milan's Coffee Revolution Is Reshaping Italian Coffee Culture – CoffeeTalk

In Milan, the coffee culture is experiencing a significant transformation, primarily driven by Sevengrams, a coffee brand established in 2009 by four sisters—Mary, Angelita, Anna, and Daniela Mauro, who hail from a lineage with deep roots in coffee roasting. With a mission to reshape the Italian coffee narrative, Sevengrams places emphasis on respecting traditional practices while introducing innovative concepts, particularly the notion that espresso can transcend its conventional associations with bitterness and predictability. Mary Mauro articulates that their intent was not to add yet another label to a crowded market but to recalibrate the entire coffee experience. By slowing down the brewing process, they focus on the significance of each decision made in crafting the perfect 25 milliliters of espresso.

Sevengrams comprises two distinct outlets in Milan: the Coffee Studio, located on Via Valparaiso 9, serves as a multifunctional space for retail, training, and coffee education, while their new café on Corso di Porta Venezia 31 offers a welcoming environment for patrons to enjoy meticulously crafted coffee. Daniela remarks on their architectural endeavor to embody their manifesto that “Coffee is a fruit,” selecting natural materials and designs that highlight coffee’s agricultural essence and promote discussions on biodiversity and its origins.

In contrast to the prevailing view of Italian coffee, which often leans towards the negative—characterized by subpar quality masked by ritualistic traditions and dark roasting techniques—critics like Cristina Caroli and Valentina Palange challenge the status quo, asserting that the deep-rooted acceptance of bitterness and consistency has diluted coffee’s true essence. Palange’s book, *Coffee in Italy Sucks*, emphasizes the disconnect between the ritualistic enjoyment of espresso and its actual flavor, questioning the widely accepted mediocrity within Italian coffee culture.

As history unfolds, coffee’s journey from Ethiopia to Italy illustrates a rich tapestry of cultural evolution, with Venice emerging as a pivotal hub for coffeehouse culture in the 16th century. The introduction of the espresso machine in the late 19th century marked a revolutionary moment in coffee history, imbuing a sense of speed and social communion. However, the latter part of the 20th century saw stagnation in coffee quality, leading to a culture where dark roasting dominated, much to the detriment of nuanced flavors.

Sevengrams has carved a niche within this evolving landscape, representing both tradition and innovation through its sub-brands: 7Gr focuses on espresso respecting the traditional dose of seven grams per serving, while Lot Zero, established in 2018, emphasizes specialty coffee, experimenting with unique origins and meticulous roasting profiles, ensuring richness in flavor and quality.

Education plays a key role in Sevengrams’ operations, with both their café and studio designed to foster an understanding of coffee as a complex agricultural product. Through hands-on experiences, they emphasize the importance of context, care in preparation, and authentic engagement with patrons, embodying a culture of trust and discovery rather than mere consumption. The sisters are committed to sustainable growth that prioritizes quality, environmental respect, and transparent relationships with consumers.

In essence, Sevengrams is more than just a coffee entity; it represents a cultural renaissance in coffee appreciation, illustrating how Milan has emerged as a progressive center for redefining Italian coffee while remaining faithful to its rich traditions. By promoting education and accessibility, they foster a deeper conversation about the value of coffee, encouraging a discerning public that appreciates both the heritage and the craftsmanship behind every cup.

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