India's Coffee Growers Begin to Shift Towards Specialty Production – CoffeeTalk

Indian coffee exports constitute about 70% of the total crop, with domestic consumption on a consistent rise due to the country’s increasing wealth. Historically perceived as a bulk commodity, the coffee trade is now transitioning to emphasize direct trade relationships, whereby buyers procure beans straight from growers, thus fostering closer connections.

Blue Tokai Coffee Roasters exemplifies this shift by working directly with over 100 estates across multiple states, primarily sourcing arabica coffee, alongside limited varieties of robusta and excelsa for specialty brews. Rahul Reddy of Subko Coffee Roasters emphasizes a “hyper-traceable” approach, ensuring customers know exactly where their coffee comes from—including details about the processing methods, which appeals to those willing to pay a premium for transparency.

At the Thadian Kudisai Estate, owner Shekhar Nagarajan highlights the blend of agricultural science and traditional practices in coffee cultivation. He closely monitors coffee seed growth, adhering to lunar cycles in planting. The estate, with 44.5 hectares primarily dedicated to arabica, also cultivates diverse crops like avocado and spices, integrating climate-resistant plant species to future-proof against potential threats to arabica.

Throughout its history, dating back to the 1880s, Thadian Kudisai has adapted its practices; while earlier efforts focused on increasing yield and disease resistance, the current emphasis is on quality, assessed through international cupping scores. Labor for harvesting remains predominantly manual, with about two-thirds comprised of women, although mechanization is gradually increasing.

Nagarajan’s commitment to organic practices is evident, abstaining from harmful chemicals and utilizing traditional methods such as panchagavya and vermi-compost, significantly reducing costs while enhancing flavor uniqueness. Most of the estate’s coffee is sold through ECOM Agroindustrial Corp., a trading firm prioritizing quality in pricing, while a portion is directly marketed by Nagarajan’s daughters.

The shift towards specialty production is visible in their output, specifically with the Yellow Bourbon variety, emphasizing flavor selection over quantity. As consumer awareness grows about the intricacies of coffee production, brands like Coffee Sutra advocate for a deeper understanding of coffee as a product of meticulous processes, reflecting a broader shift within India’s coffee industry towards higher-quality, craft-oriented production.

Future industry sustainability hinges on farmers’ adaptability to mechanization and climate change, yet the anticipated rise in domestic consumption presents ample opportunities for growth in the coffee sector.

Read More @ Nikkei Asia