Diverse Tastes: The Adaptation Of India's Coffee Culture – CoffeeTalk

Filter coffee, also known as kaapi, is a South Indian coffee that has been brewed through a two-chambered filter, with the upper chamber holding finely ground coffee and the lower chamber catching the steadily dripping, rich brew. This method preserves complex flavors and oils, presenting an unmatched depth of taste. The filter method is deeply embedded in southern states such as Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, while instant coffee is prized for convenience and the fast-paced urban lifestyle in the northern states.

India’s coffee consumption reached 91,000 tonnes of green bean equivalent (GBE) in 2023, up from 84,000 tonnes in 2012. This was driven by increased home use, rising instant coffee popularity, and a boom in café culture. Analysts predict a double-billion-dollar boom in demand by 2027, spurred by evolving consumer tastes and lifestyle shifts.

The nation’s coffee history runs deep, with tea arriving long before tea. Tea gained widespread popularity when the colonising British sought to reduce their reliance on tea imports from China. Binny Varghese, fondly called Barista on a Bike and founder of Barista Training Academy in New Delhi, highlights an intriguing paradox: “India produces some of the best teas in the world, yet most of the premium varieties are exported.” This stems from the development of the industry under colonial rule, which prioritised mass production over quality.

Coffee farmers in Nagaland are learning experimental techniques such as anaerobic and carbonic maceration. The rise of chains such as Barista and Starbucks, and homegrown specialty brands such as Blue Tokai, Nandan Coffee, and Bombay Island among others have popularized espresso-based drinks in urban centers, attracting younger, affluent audiences. From coffee tours to sampling sessions to making your own brew while offering product innovation, brands are crafting experiences to make coffee a cool drink.

Rupal Jain, Founder of Bombay Island Coffee, says that India’s coffee culture is on the cusp of transformation, following the path of other nations where economic growth has shifted preferences from tea to coffee. As disposable incomes rise, coffee is becoming a lifestyle choice, influenced by the appeal of café culture. Coffee is associated with socializing, relaxation, and modernity, reflecting a broader societal shift towards premium, experience-driven consumption.

In South Korea, Singapore, and China, once known for their tea-drinking cultures, have all undergone similar transitions, with coffee emerging as the drink of everyday life and a symbol of affluence. Coffee entrepreneurs have noticed an untapped potential in the Indian market—where the typical coffee is over-roasted or lacks the subtle sweetness of specialty ones.

In conclusion, filter coffee, or kaapi, is a beloved South Indian beverage that has evolved over time due to factors such as increased home use, instant coffee popularity, and the rise of coffee-based drinks in urban centers.

Pranathi Shetty, Rupal Jain, and Lichan Humtsoe are entrepreneurs who have been working to reshape the Indian coffee landscape. They started their journey in 2016 by learning everything about coffee, from farming to brewing, with local and international training. Their insights led them to realize that India has the potential to produce exceptional coffee, but the local market was missing quality beans. This gap led to investing in a roastery inside their cafe in Vikhroli.

On soil, more farmers are becoming conscious of how beans are grown and processed, with new techniques such as fermentation and whiskey barrel ageing being enlisted to develop unique flavor profiles that were previously exported. Coffee-growing regions are beginning to offer more specialized beans for a refined, global palate. Bean prices are at an all-time high, with Robusta, in particular, reaching a record high of Rs 4 lakh metric tonne on the London-based ICE Futures Europe market. Climate change and unpredictable weather impact production, especially for the Arabica variant of coffee, which has seen significantly lower yields this season. In contrast, Robusta has fared better due to improved irrigation practices.

Climate change is driving experimentation in previously unsuitable areas for coffee cultivation, such as the Northeast of India. While this presents new opportunities, it doesn’t threaten traditional regions such as Chikkamagaluru, where local consumption steadily increases. Rajasthan has an emerging coffee culture boosted by foreign tourists, with new modern cafés opening every month. Some cafes also offer international coffees, which bear high import taxes.

Punjabi has a vibrant coffee scene, especially Chandigarh and Amritsar, with two noteworthy roasters—Double Shot coffee roasters and Bloom Coffee roasters—that have revolutionised the region’s coffee culture. Punjab likes its cappuccinos, lattes, and flat whites served at much higher temperatures. Double Shot café in Amritsar has trained patrons to appreciate the right temperature for these drinks, which has had an enormous impact.

In Jalandhar, new generation cafés like Buland, Zoka, and Wht Blk are part of a broader wave of establishments cultivating a passionate coffee community. In Surat, coffee is an alternative to alcohol in a dry state, with Amit Patel’s KOKORO hosting home-brewing workshops and nurturing a local network of enthusiasts.

The modern Indian customer now prefers specialty coffee that’s been roasted to perfect the flavor profile and painstakingly brewed in a myriad of methods by baristas. Été Coffee, the first specialty coffee roasting company and first Coffee School in the northeastern states, is actively supporting this trend by offering equipment and machinery.

The coffee industry in India has been evolving since the early 1980s, with the first specialty coffee roasters in Nagaland in 2016. Since then, there has been significant momentum driven by initiatives from the government, the Department of Land Resources, and the Coffee Board. The establishment of other coffee roasters, such as Nagaland Coffee in 2018, further fuelled this growth. D’Cafe in Kohima is acclaimed to be the first full-fledged modern-day cafe established in 2016.

Technology and techniques are still in their early days on farms, with most coffee plantations only being established in the past five to eight years. Farmers are adopting new practices, and while it can be overwhelming, there is a strong sense of excitement and potential. The transformation of coffee in India—from political and industrial roots to a more humane, culture-driven movement—continues to unfold. A fourth wave with specialty shops, roasters, and artisanal cafés is washing over major cities, fostering awareness about fair-trade practices, small-batch sourcing, and unique brewing techniques. However, full adoption will depend on several factors.

Traditional preferences for filter coffee and instant coffee mean tastes vary widely, and specialty coffee remains a premium product. Additionally, awareness about the environmental and ethical dimensions of coffee sourcing, touchstone of the fourth wave, is still developing. The growing presence of local specialty brands, greater consumer awareness, and rising younger demographic suggest India has the potential to become a robust market in the near future.

Maharashtra has been cultivating coffee for over a century, with plantations such as Chikhaldara’s 100-acre estate in Amravati district dating back to the late 1800s. Its Arabica coffee, once nurtured by British officers and later expanded by the Roman Catholic Mission, remains largely absent from specialty coffee shops. Despite the increasing demand for premium, specialty coffee, most of Maharashtra’s harvest is sold in its raw forms, such as filter coffee or green beans.

However, the industry faces a fundamental challenge: a need for formal education in coffee processing. While south Indian farmers have long been trained in fermentation and processing, many in Maharashtra lack these essential skills, resulting in much of the bean not reaching its potential as specialty coffee. State-grown coffee has scored high on the Q-grading scale (universal system for evaluating coffees), and experts believe that it could take five to 10 years for Maharashtra to become a recognized player in the specialty coffee world.

The history of the coffee industry in Pune is even more profound, as the coffee quality is evaluated using a 100-point scale developed by the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA). Only about 6% of the world’s coffee meets the standards required to be classified as specialty coffee.

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